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.Theyalso have rental cottages and a townhouse with a pool and a view ofthe Assateague Lighthouse (4248 Main Street, 800-336-6787,www.poplarcorner.com, $$).A stay at the Island Manor House comes with a great bedtime story.In 1848 two young men pooled their money to build a large T-shapedhouse on Main Street.One was a doctor, the other the town s postmas-ter.The postmaster fell in love with a guest visiting from Baltimore, andthey married.When her sister came to visit, the doctor fell in love withher, and they married.Trouble was, the sisters didn t like living to-gether, so the house was split, and one couple moved next door.The184 Informationcurrent owners reunited the house with a large garden room (4160Main Street, 800-852-1505, www.islandmanor.com, $$).Two motels are just before the entrance to the wildlife refuge, which iswithin walking distance: Driftwood Lodge (7105 Maddox Blvd.,800-553-6117, $$), and the Refuge Inn (7058 Maddox Blvd.,888-257-0039, $$).TIPPets are not allowed in the Chincoteague WildlifeRefuge, not even in the car.Nevertheless, severallodgings do accept them.The Garden and the Sea Inn & Restaurant is a few milesfrom Chincoteague in New Church, but worth the drive if youhave a pet and want to stay in a beautiful Victorian home onthe Pocomoke River ( 800-824-0672, www.gardenandseainn.com,$$).Motels accepting pets include The Blue Heron Inn (7020Maddox Blvd., 800-615-6343, $); and the LighthouseInn (4218 Main Street, 757-336-5091, $$).CampingThere are four private campgrounds on the island, some on the water.Visit www.chincoteaguechamber.com for details.They are: InletView ( 757-336-5126, www.happysnails.com/inletview); MaddoxFamily Campground ( 757-336-3111); Pine Grove ( 757-336-5200, www.pinegrovecampground.com); and Tom s Cove FamilyCampground ( 757-336-6498, www.tomscovepark.com).InformationChincoteague Chamber of Commerce, 757-336-6161, www.chincoteaguechamber.com.185Virginia s Eastern Shore Tangier IslandDID YOU KNOW?While the rest of Virginia s Eastern Shore voted tojoin the Confederacy in 1861, the people of Chin-coteague Island voted 132 to 2 to stay with theUnion to preserve sea trade with the North.EventsAnnual Pony Swim and Penning, held the last Wednesday andThursday in July ( 757-787-2460).Annual Seafood Festival, held the first Wednesday in May at Tom sCove Park ( 757-787-2460).Tangier Islandhere s not a whole lot to do on Tangier Island, but that s its biggestTappeal.Imagine spending an entire weekend on an island withoutcars, much less traffic.You can escape the telephone and e-mail, andthere is no schedule and few decisions to make.Only a few places offerlodging and food, and there are only two ways to get here by boat orsmall plane.Oh, sure, Tangier Island has its distractions.You can tour the three-mile-long island by borrowed bike or rented golf cart, or cruise aroundit on a sightseeing trip.There are about a half-dozen gift shops, a 2½-mile beach to walk on and, if the watermen aren t too busy, they llshow you their crabbing operations.Explore some of the old grave-yards although many are in people s yards, so ask first.Far from citylights, the stargazing is magnificent.There are three embarkation points to get to Tangier.Ferries departCrisfield MD, Onancock on Virginia s Eastern Shore, or Reedville VA,on the western shore. Daily excursions start in May and run throughmid-October.A ferry operates from Crisfield year-round, but with justone trip a day, you have to stay overnight.186 Getting HereDID YOU KNOW?During the War of 1812, about 1,200 British sol-diers camped the island s beaches in preparationfor the attack on Baltimore.Getting HereFrom OnancockThe Capt.Eulice passenger ferry departs for Tangier Island 10amdaily Memorial Day weekend to mid-October.It s just a 12-mile trip,five of it on Onancock Creek, returning at 3:30pm.Fares are $20 perperson round-trip, half-price for children ages six-12 (under six get infree).Pets allowed on a leash.No credit cards accepted.They also rentgolf carts and bikes on the island.Tangier-Onancock Cruises( 757-891-2240, www.chesapeakebaysampler.com/tangierisland).From Crisfield, MarylandThe Courtney Thomas is owned and operated by Rudy and BethThomas, and named after their daughter.Captain Thomas is the fifthgeneration in his family to run the mail route from Crisfield to TangierIsland.He gives a narrative of Tangier during the trip.Day excursionsrun mid-May through mid-October.Year-round ferry service departsCrisfield daily at 12:30pm, leaving Tangier at 8am, requiring an over-night stay.$20 per person, round-trip; children free when accompa-nied by a parent.No credit cards accepted ( 410-968-2338).From ReedvilleDaily ferry departs from the Northern Neck on the western shore of theChesapeake Bay, May-October ( 804-453-2628).To fly into Tangier, contact Accomack County Airport in Melfa, Vir-ginia ( 757-789-3719).Around TownIf you depart from Onancock or Crisfield, your boat will likely bepiloted by a native Tangier waterman, and when you arrive, it will be187Virginia s Eastern Shore Tangier Islandmet by a friendly guide who gives 10-minute walking tours of the is-land.For $3, you can get a tour by golf cart.From Crisfield, it ll likely becaptain Thomas, and from Onancock, captain Pruitt (you ll find thesesurnames, along with Crockett, all over the island).Wallace and Shir-ley Pruitt own the largest B&B on the island.Now retired, Wallaceworked the Chesapeake Bay on tugboats.They, as well as otherfriendly natives you ll meet, have an accent notably different frommainland Virginians.It s said their dialect still retains remnants of Eliza-bethan English.Tangier s surnames go way back
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